A Good Appetite

 

“The primary requisite for writing well about food is a good appetite. Without this, it is impossible to accumulate, within the allotted span, enough experience of eating to have anything worth setting down. Each day brings only two opportunities for fieldwork, and they are not to be wasted minimizing the intake of cholesterol. They are indispensable, like a prizefighter’s hours on the road.”

- AJ Liebling

 

Indispensable but surely not disposable…for writers such as AJ Liebling a good appetite was a food writer’s best ally or on some occasions, a wonderful dining companion.

One finds this good appetite in Liebling’s writing which was prolific when it came to the plate. Although he followed a different meter and style than contemporary food writers, such as, Elizabeth David and M.F.K Fisher, he, too, like Fisher and David was unapologetic ( perhaps a little less gracefully), when it came to his favorite subject of food.

Which brings us back to this notion of good appetite. When I first began to read Lieblings’ memoir, Between Meals, I was struck firstly by his style and approach to food and secondly by his declaration of what makes a good food writer: a good appetite. This does not seem like rocket science but it made me think how many food writers today truly have a good appetites. I do not mean who has vices and who has virtues when it comes to food. Rather, what is your gut reaction when you see say, five different types of pate, a free whisky tasting, or stinky cheeses, for sale? Do you gag or giggle with delight? Let’s hope the later for both your writing and reader’s sake.

As a food writer, or let me be honest, an aspiring food writer, I try to keep my appetite in check. When I landed in Milan last week, I promptly went to the airport café ordered a cappuccino and a cornetto. Later, I confessed this to my friend, Paolo, who replied, that is the first sign of becoming Italian. Perhaps, so? I go cross-eyed when I think about nationality these days. Nevertheless, that cappuccino and cornetto marriage seemed like the appropriate thing to do. There was no question or doubt but rather a simple gut feeling: I am back in Italy, therefore…

This happened later that evening with old school cronies where we celebrated our reunion with a variety of Piemontese and Langhe wines. Was my head a little fuzzy the next day, perhaps so. But I think it was worth the bite, sip, gulp, or whatever.

That day was a prime example of a good appetite. There was no question I would eat and drink Italian – Piemontese to be exact and I would enjoy it. My two month hiatus had left me missing Nebbiolo, acciughe en salsa Verde, panna cotta, vitello de tonnato, agnoletti con burro e salvia (what is it about butter and sage), and Italian espresso. I had reinvigorated my appetite – jogged my Italian sensibilities when it came to food and drink, which proved indispensable in those brief bittersweet six days. 

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